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Samsung Galaxy S20 Screen Replacement

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Step 1 - Warm Up The Back Glass

  • Turn off your Samsung Galaxy S20.

  • Remove the SIM tray.

  • Apply heat to the back of the phone to soften the adhesive which holds the back glass.

  • We are using a special heating plate (not shown in photos/video)

  • You can use a heat gun or a hairdryer for a minute or so at max. 110°C.

  • You may need to repeat the process because the glue hardens quickly.

  • Note:

  • Opening your Samsung Galaxy S20 will damage the waterproof sealing on your device.

  • Your phone will still function normally if you do not replace the adhesive seals, but it will lose its water ingress protection.

  • Caution:

  • Take care and avoid overheating your Samsung S20.

  • Both the AMOLED display and the battery can be damaged by excessive heat.

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Step 2 - Removing The Back Glass
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  • Insert the thin metal opening tool (iFlex) between the back glass and the metal frame.

  • Start from the bottom and work your way around the edges of the phone.

  • We are using some isopropyl alcohol as a glue solvent.

  • Avoid the area around volume and power buttons.

  • There is nothing attached to the back glass, so you can now remove it.

  • Caution:

  • The edge of the back glass near the buttons is recessed to fit the metal frame of the phone.

  • Avoid this area when cutting through the glue with the iFlex tool, since the glass is fragile in areas with curves and cutouts.

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Step 3 - Removing The Charging Coil
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  • Remove the five 4.0mm Phillips screws securing the Qi charging coil.

  • The bottom part of the coil is secured with some glue on the speaker.

  • It should come off easily, just like a sticker.

  • Then remove the charging coil completely.

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Step 4 - Disconnecting The Battery & Other Connectors
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  • Removing the charging coil gave us access to the battery connector and other connectors as well.

  • As always, you should disconnect the battery first.

  • Remove the four 4.0mm Phillips screws securing the mainboard cover.

  • Remove the plastic MAIN board cover/shield.

  • Now disconnect all the connectors from the mainboard.

  • Lever carefully and bend contacts slightly to the side.

  • Caution:

  • When you pry to disconnect the connectors on the board, avoid levering on places where there are small components on the board so as not to damage them.

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Step 5 - Removing The MAIN Board
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  • Remove the screws holding the mainboard and the cameras.

  • 1x 2.8mm Phillips screw

  • 1x 4.0mm Phillips screw

  • Now lift the board carefully on one side and take it out with both hands.

  • Make sure no cables or connectors get caught.

  • Avoid touching the camera lenses.

  • Caution:

  • Take special care when handling the mainboard.

  • Soldered components are fragile and hard to repair.

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Step 6 - Removing The Speaker And The SUB Board
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  • Loosen the screws securing the plastic cover and the embedded speaker.

  • 5x 4.0mm Phillips screws.

  • Lift the speaker and take it out.

  • Remove the three 4.0mm Phillips screws securing the board with the USB-C charging socket.

  • Detach the connectors from the bottom board with the tip of a spudger.

  • Remove the two cables on the right side.

  • The cable with a noticeable curve to the right is permanently attached to the display.

  • Lift the SUB board from the side facing the battery.

  • Pull the board upwards to remove it from the phone housing.

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Step 7 - Removing The Battery
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  • The battery is heavily glued to the phone housing.

  • We are using a bit of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the glue and the hot plate to loosen it.

  • You can once again use the heat gun or the hairdryer.

  • Do not heat-up the battery directly, apply heat from the display side.

  • Then pry the battery out carefully.

  • Caution:

  • It is advised to use plastic tools when working with a battery.

  • Do not by any means puncture the battery, especially with a metal tool, since the battery can catch fire and explode.

  • Also avoid bending and deforming the battery.

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Step 8 - The New Display
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  • The replacement LCD comes together with the metal frame, under-display fingerprint scanner, and side buttons.

  • Only two things are missing, the vibration motor and the proximity sensor.

  • Some replacement parts can also miss the earpiece.

  • Ours has one already installed.

  • The vibra motor and the proximity sensor should be transfered from the old assembly.

  • Pry out the vibration motor from the old assembly and transfer it to the new one.

  • Now remove the proximity sensor and insert it in the new LCD assembly.

  • Press it slightly until it is properly seated.

  • Note I:

  • The vibration motor is held by a double-sided adhesive sticker.

  • It usually comes off with the vibra motor. If not, pry it off and stick it to the new LCD assembly before installing the vibration motor.

  • Note II:

  • The flex cable of the proximity sensor is secured to the phone housing with some glue.

  • Use a steel spatula or straight round tip tweezers to carefully pry the cable off the housing and remove it from the cavity.

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Step 9 - Reinstalling The SUB Board, The Battery, And The Speaker
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  • Place the board with the USB socket at an angle at the bottom of the new LCD assembly.

  • Slide into the frame and make sure it is properly seated before you screw it on.

  • We are using 3mm double-sided adhesive tape to secure the battery.

  • Carefully remove the old glue from the battery before inserting it into the phone housing.

  • Now reconnect the two cables you previously disconnected from the sub-board.

  • The cables are properly marked with SUB and MAIN so you know which is connected to which board.

  • Secure the SUB board with 3x 4.0mm Phillips screws.

  • Now insert the speaker assembly bottom part first, and press it to click in place.

  • Secure the speaker assembly with five 4.0mm Phillips screws.

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Step 10 - Reinstalling The MAIN Board And The Charging Coil
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  • Bend all connectors to the side before inserting the MAIN board.

  • Carefully put the MAIN board in place and be careful not to pinch any cables under the board.

  • When the MAIN board is flush and flat into the housing, you can screw it down.

  • 1x 3.4.0mm Phillips screw

  • Reconnect all the flat cables and connectors like the front camera, proximity sensor, LCD flex cable, charging flex cable, buttons.

  • At the end reconnect the battery.

  • Now put the plastic shield in place, on top of the motherboard and secure it with a 1x 4.0mm screw so it doesn't move.

  • Insert and connect the wireless charging coil assembly.

  • Secure the wireless charging coil with six 4.0mm screws.

  • And secure the MAIN board and the plastic shield with the 3 remaining 4.0mm screws.

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Step 11 - Reinstalling The Back Cover
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  • Before we secure the back cover to the metal frame, we will switch on the device.

  • If the device works as it should, we can now install the back cover.

  • Our back cover still has the original glue on it, so we will not add any glue or adhesive tape this time.

  • We will warm it up on the hot plate and then put it in place.

  • We are using a few clamp clips to hold the cover tight until the glue hardens.

  • And that is the end of this repair.